leo & pipo, parisian street art
An example of Parisian street art, Leo & Pipo are two artists using old photographs to bring viewers back in time. To see more of their stuff, check out http://www.myspace.com/leoandpipo.
completely spoiled by berthillon: no other ice cream will do
Even at first glance you can tell. The golf ball-sized portions give it away: we aren’t in America anymore and Cold Stone Creamery this is not. No, to find such bliss, you must travel to Paris’ Île Saint Louis, one of the oldest (and most well preserved) sections of the city, a small island disrupting the iconic River Seine. This is the home of the ever-famous Berthillon ice cream. It only took me my fourth trip to Paris to discover this sought-after treat written about in just about every guidebook and travel blog. But believe me, it’s not hard to find. The island is only the length of a few city blocks and even if you’re not good with a map, the lines of tourists and Parisians alike will be an obvious indicator that you’ve found it.
The first time I went I was completely disappointed to see that the actual shop was closed (check ahead of time for hours/holidays/etc) but was quickly reassured when I realized the entire island is full of shops selling exactly the same ice cream. After some translation assistance from my sister, we decided on flavors like pistachio, framboise (raspberry), pampelmousse (grapefruit), fleur de sel caramel (salted caramel) and cassis (blackcurrent). Salted caramel is found all over France but rarely in the states, so if you see it, get it. The best way to sample Berthillon is to try a combination of fruity sorbet flavors (made with real fruit and all-natural ingredients) as well as the more sweet, sugary ones.
Take note – flavors change daily according to season and availability. So don’t fret if your favorite flavor isn’t there one day. Trust me, you’ll be back a few times.
31 Rue St-Louis en l’Île, Paris
http://www.berthillon.fr/
paris, je t’aime
You don’t have to visit Paris to know that it is easily one of the most romantic cities in the world. The sparkling Eiffel Tower at night, the quaint winding streets perfect for getting lost in and the dimly lit cafés are just begging for coupledom. So why not have a display in the city’s artistic section of Montmartre that celebrates love in every language? Artist Frédéric Baron created just that, along with calligrapher Claire Kito and the help from supporters all over the globe. Baron compiled nearly 1,000 different written “I Love You” samples but then narrowed it down to just over 300, which you can see scripted on the dark blue tiles of the wall today. The attraction is in a small park, the Jehan Rictus garden, just steps away from the entrance to the Abbesses Metro stop. It’s free to enter, and you’ll feel a sense of complete awe looking at all of the very different languages that exist and the many ways to say those important three words.
bretagne’s galettes in paris: not your average crêpe
When I think of crêpes, doughy, thin, floppy pancakes filled with swiss cheese and ham or even nutella come to mind. So when I tried crispy, paper-thin, grainy buckwheat crêpes folded over fillings like fresh goat cheese, smoked salmon and eggs my taste buds were totally shocked. But this is the difference: these aren’t just normal crêpes, they’re called galettes – made from buckwheat flour creating a darker, crispier dough. While galettes are common in France’s Bretagne (Brittany) region, there is one place in Paris that really knows how to recreate this regional dish. Breizh Café in the fashionable Marais district is a place that isn’t trying too hard to be trendy – the food is simple, fresh and affordable. We were greeted by a friendly host and a 15 minute wait, but just 20 minutes later, the hour-long wait was turning away hungry patrons. The menu featured three sections of crêpes – appetizers, entrées and desserts. Of course, once we settled on our choices, the specials of the day were passed to us, which offered even more delicious pairings to pick from. After ordering a bottle of dry cider beer (very traditional), we started with the blue cheese, nuts and honey variation, which was presented to us in eight square pieces with tiny Bretagne flags sticking out of them. This truly was one of the lightest, most delicious things I ever ate. Our entrées were incredible as well, fresh goat cheese drizzled with a nutmeg and cinnamon-infused honey and garnished with crisp mesclun greens and the smoked salmon, spinach and egg combination was fantastic as well. Wishing we could have saved room for one of the sweet dessert crêpes, we weren’t disappointed when the check came with two caramels from the same region of the country. If you’re looking to try this incredibly French dish and aren’t moved by the street vendors, spend an afternoon in the Marais and stop here for a bite. Not only is the food worth the visit, but the lesson in French culture is something to see as well.
109, rue Vieille du Temple
www.breizhcafe.com
impressive modern art & the best (free) view of paris’ skyline
The towering modern skyscrapers of Manhattan, Seattle’s Space Needle and the Sears Tower in Chicago have nothing on Paris’ iconic skyline. When attempting to catch a glimpse of city life from above, you can often plan on paying anywhere from $10-30 just to ride an elevator. Of course, Paris offers views from the Eiffel Tour (plan on shelling out €10-15) but where can you get that skyline and capture the tower in the distance? Centre Pompidou: you might be in it just for the views, but the art is worth a visit too. One of Paris’ largest modern art museums, Pompidou is famous for its high-tech exterior – a sweeping, flat plaza giving way to a colorful display of tubes, pipes and wacky art installations. While the collections are intriguing, the views are quite spectacular – just tell the ticket vendor you’re grabbing a coffee at the rooftop café and ride the escalators to experience 360° views of cathedrals, monuments, traditional rowhouses, and of course, la Tour Eiffel.
marshmallow lovers unite: a new twist on the sticky treat
Paris’ Rue Rambuteau is a street chock full of choices. Between the various antique and jewelry boutiques to the competing boulangeries selling fresh meats served on crispy baguettes, you’ll find yourself crossing the street over and over again to get a better look at what’s available on both sides. And dessert? Covered. We found this charming shop with glistening windows beckoning a visit. Thin heart-shaped caramel-coated flaky sugar cookies and tiny glass jars filled with mousse or custard adorned with dime-sized raspberries were on display. But most enticing were the handmade marshmallows of various flavors – pistachio, caramel, rose and chocolate layered with toasted coconut. Soft, fluffy and just €1, it’s worth sampling a few. At the front counter we found nougat-flavored marshmallows on a stick, layered with thin white chocolate and sprinkled with nuts. If you’re looking to try some of Paris’ famous delicacies, Pain de Sucre at 14, Rue Rambuteau is a fantastic place to start.
Tel: 01 45 74 68 92
www.patisseriepaindesucre.com
the eerie side of france’s romantic capital
There’s nothing quite like exploring the 120-acre Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris’ 20th arrondissement on a crisp fall day. Known as one of the most famous cemeteries in the world and the burial place of over 300,000 prestigious and renowned French (and foreign) artists, novelists, composers, singers, philosophers and actors, this cemetery is great on a sunny day but even better in an overcast (perhaps even rainy) setting. Strolling through the winding cobblestone streets, you’ll get lost (literally) in a maze of intricate burial sites, open doorways leading to small tombs adorned with spider-webbed stained glass windows and impressive sculptures decorating flower-laden graves. Grab a map and you’ll find the typical highlights, where the likes of Oscar Wilde, Édith Piaf, Jim Morrison, Eugène Delacroix and Frédéric Chopin are buried. Wander aimlessly on your own and you’ll discover a different version of Paris, the antithesis of the charming River Seine and the Tour Eiffel, a more eerie side of this romantic city.
braving the crowds at paris’ largest produce market
Paris’ 11th arrondissement houses not only one of the most densely populated neighborhoods in France’s capital (and in most of Europe) but also the city’s largest produce market. Every Thursday and Sunday from 7AM to about 2:30-3PM, stepping outside the Bastille metro stop is like climbing the stairway to gourmet heaven. You’ll find a bit of everything here, and almost too much of it: vendors urging you to purchase their fresh fruits and vegetables (there might be 20+ stands selling just that), Fromageries serving French and exotic cheeses, Boulangeries selling fresh, crispy baguettes and fish mongers boasting huge crawling crabs and lobsters and mussels going for just 7€/kilo. As a first-timer to the market, either arrive early or later when the market is near closing. Earlier visitors will find better choices and less crowds, while the latecomers will sometimes discover discounts and better bargains. Be sure to try the olive fougasse, a circular bread flavored with salty black olives baked inside. Look out for manouché a thyn, a Lebanese breakfast staple with a crêpe-like dough lathered in olive oil, thyme, sesame seeds, lemon and salt. Just 2.50€, this is a savory treat great for braving market crowds. Whether you’re planning an extravagant Sunday lunch or just looking to sample some traditional French fare (of course, nothing’s better than a baguette, cheese and saucisson), head to the market to see Parisian culture at its finest.
smoking shisha: parisian culture 101
When you think about spending a relaxing afternoon in Paris, does hanging out at a mosque come to mind? I certainly didn’t think I would discover this chill hangout in such an unassuming building on the streets of France’s capital. Walking up the front steps of La Mosquee, I was immediately hit by whiffs of “shisha” (Arabic for hookah), and felt warm sunlight pouring in through the lattice gates, decorating the colorful enamel tiles. This is a peaceful spot to grab a cup of sweet mint tea or coffee or simply spend a few hours leisurely hanging out with friends. The hookah was about six euros and sweets were served as well – baklava, almond pastries (cornes de gazelles) and date cookies, only two euros each. Watch out for the birds though, they aren’t afraid to sweep in for a bite! The mosque also offers Turkish baths and hot oil massages for just 10-20 euros. But these baths aren’t for the body-conscious. After stripping down to bathing suit bottoms, attendants pour really hot water over your body while you scrub your skin with rough loofahs. Definitely check on times before showing up - they vary according to day and gender. A step off the typical tourist path, La Mosquee offers a different glimpse into Parisian culture, a place where immigrants now contribute to the city’s unique flavor.
